Digital, physical, and now physical: fashion shows aim, as in the past, a return to the regular program. Think amazing sets, vivid lights, and exciting playlists.
Two years ago, there was little chance of a physical fashion show due to travel bans, security concerns and closed borders around the world. Fashion cognoscenti tackled this unprecedented phenomenon by attending fashion shows virtually, leaving many to wonder if this was the new normal. However, as the restrictions gradually eased, the show began to make a resolute comeback.
Needless to say, each brand pulls out all the stops in a wide range of incredible sets. Previous years saw Chanel show fall/winter 2019 amidst the beautiful backdrop of the Alps. Dior’s spring/summer 2022 runway also made headlines for its board game concept, accompanied by disco lights.
This year proved no different. Just last week, Chanel continued its spectacular visual momentum with the exciting 2023 cruise ship show presented at the Hotel Monte-Carlo Beach with stars like G-Dragon and Tilda Swinton in attendance. The previous week saw the fall of Dior 2022 being held in Seoul.
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Louis Vuitton Cruise 2023, San Diego, USA
Louis Vuitton has been known to stage their runway shows in some of the most extraordinary settings in the world. From the Miho Museum in Japan to the TWA Aviation Center by Eero Saarinen at John F Kennedy airport, trust the maison to find the most stunning locations.
For their collection of 2023 voyages on May 12, the maison have chosen the Salk Institute in La Jolla, San Diego County, California which reflects a source of inspiration for artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière. According to him, the magnificent architecture and scientific interest in the location reflects the craftsmanship and futuristic silhouette of the upcoming collection. What better location than one of the most significant architectural sites in the United States—Salk—to host one of the greatest fashion names of all time?
Salk is also an independent, non-profit research institute for scientists to make life-changing discoveries in aging, cancer, neuroscience, climate change, immunology, and developing areas beyond global health and well-being. Ghesquière describes Salk as a celebration of “intelligence, knowledge and belief in the power of science”, which appeals to the pillars of the house. In time, fashion buffs can look forward to a spacious central courtyard that integrates more than 410,000 square feet of concrete overlooking nature, sky and sea.
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Gucci Spring 2023, Puglia, Italy
Gucci has always been fascinated by great historical locations, so it’s no surprise that Alessandro Michele have chosen Castel Del Monte to showcase their spring/summer 2023 collection on 16 May. Since 1996, the castle which prides itself on being a bastion of medieval military architecture has been protected as a World Heritage Site. Visitors are instantly blown away by its unique geometric design and the endless views of the Puglia countryside surrounding the castle.
The setting of Castel Del Monte has also remained unchanged and stands 540 meters above sea level. While the octagonal shape and original interior design has been retained, traces of decay and decorative marble have been removed. Even so, the bare interior of the castle accentuates its integrity; similar to Gucci’s commitment as a home to effectively promote cultural heritage and art as authentically as possible.
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Dior Men Spring 2023, Los Angeles, USA
Dior has allocated May 19 to unveil the men’s spring 2023 collection in Los Angeles. For the uninitiated, America was the first country to give up on Dior’s “New Look”. It is a celebration of ultra-femininity and luxury after years of military and civilian uniforms. As such, the iconic collection remains in the brand’s archives but most importantly, has strengthened Dior’s reputation as a skilled couturier.
Last December, the maison menswear collection titled On The Road was a tribute to writer Jack Kerouac. It was then that creative director Kim Jones found Kerouac’s zeitgeist musings to be parallel to the evolution of the Christian Dior house, especially at a time when the maison inspired wearers to be revolutionary in their style. It’s safe to say, there’s a lot to look forward to for the upcoming Dior show.
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Balenciaga Spring 2023, New York, USA
Balenciaga heads to the concrete jungle on May 22 for the much-anticipated Spring 2023 runway collection.
Given his last fall/winter 2022 show in Paris that saw their models make strong sociopolitical statements while walking in inclement weather, Balenciaga’s next show is expected to be equally impactful. The previous collection was an ode to his own memory of the refugees in Odessa. For him, it is also a heart-wrenching tribute to the Ukrainian refugees who fled their country in the midst of the Russian invasion.
In addition, Demna Gvasalia’s Instagram touches on discrimination and everyday musings—especially how she was once judged solely by her clothes. But for Balenciaga, it’s a rich mix of story, identity and struggle that translates brilliantly into his outfits, collection after collection.
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Dior Cruise 2023, Seville, Spain
Dior’s place for the 2023 voyage collection on June 16 is the southern Spanish city of Seville, located specifically on the Plaza de Espaa. Reflecting the brand’s penchant for places rich in history and grandeur, the square blends Baroque, Renaissance and Moorish Revival architectural styles.
Historically, Dior and Spain, and more specifically Andalusia, have had ties that date back to the 1950s. It is also anticipated that creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri will continue to collaborate with local Spanish craftsmen, as she has previously done in Greece with the local designer who gave rise to the Greek-inspired 2022 yacht collection.
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Max Mara Resort 2023, Lisbon, Portugal
Italian brand Max Mara has also been announced to grace Lisbon, Portugal for the brand’s 2023 resort collection on June 28, although the specific location remains a secret.
For Max Mara, Italy is a major source of inspiration for creative director Ian Griffiths. Their 2021 cruise collection takes place in intimate and private Ischia, with no more than 80 participants to stay within COVID-19 safety protocols. Even so, guests can view the collection at the stunning Hotel Mezzatorre overlooking the Bay of Naples. This time, his upcoming show may be as romantic as Lisbon itself.
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Valentino Haute Couture 2022, Rome, Italy
Valentino’s 2022 haute couture exhibition on 8 July will be based in the heart of Milan, in particular at Piazza Mignanelli and Trinità dei Monti. This is a return to where it all started for a famous brand. Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli also shared that Rome is a place where life, people, stories and identities are intertwined, showing evidence that it is the pulse of culture, history and fashion.
Organized in collaboration with Roma Capitale and the Advisor for Major Events, Tourism, Sport and Fashion, the event soaks up Rome’s architectural history and artistic wonders. This is also unique for the brand, as this is the first time they have showcased their haute couture collection in Italy unlike in Paris, before.
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Pucci Capsule 2022, Capri, Italy
All eyes are on the relaunch of Pucci and the first capsule collection designed by newly appointed creative director Camille Miceli on April 29. This marks a new chapter and strategy for the Florentine brand that is expertly tied to their origins and a more resort-focused orientation.
Capri, as the chosen event location, revealed Pucci’s humble beginnings on the island when it launched its first store in 1951. Since then, the brand has achieved continued success when it began to dress famous personalities like Marilyn Monroe and Jackie Kennedy.
The Capri-chic launch saw 80-100 friends, clients and media take part in Pucci yoga classes, beach lunches, and boat tours to the island’s famous Blue Grotto. Miceli also shared that the capsule collection consists of “perfect garments with a touch of imperfection”. Overall, a blend of technical know-how and effortless talent that the brand has mastered.