In 2022, sports gear is taking over the fashion

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At the end of the last decade, fashion writers tried to summarize the overall style of the 2010s. Words that keep popping up? Sport. Fitted cycling shorts were made popular by the Kardashian-Jenner family in neutral and understated colors. The cute oversized sweater has become our favorite new look after being spotted swallowing the body of the biggest pop star of the decade, Ariana Grande. Meanwhile, nearly every fashion brand has some sort of collaboration trainer on the horizon — whether Pradidas and Miu Balance or Off-White x Nike. Then, the lockdown was enforced and we all ended up dressed as Princess Diana on one of her leisurely holidays of the year, when all we wanted was to go out with a sneaky LBD revenge look and show our ex what they’re missing.

Of course, now that the restrictions in 2022 have been largely lifted and we’re back in the real world, sport alone is not enough for our social events. Instead, according to the SS22 and AW22 collections that took to the runway, our new aesthetic consists of a very specific sport fit. There are classic baseball motifs from Off-White, Louis Vuitton, Boss and Moschino (the latter even has a branded bat); The ’80s athletic ensemble at Alled Martinez; ready-to-eat outfits from Phipps; figure skating-esque outfit at Balenciaga; and a Fila-collab cut-out vest from Y/Project. But then there are items that look like they were transported from the olympic locker room that are lost and found. Think: Chanel jockey hats, soccer padding at Gucci, and wrestling singlets clinging to the bodies of male models belonging to designers including Loewe and Lazoschmidl.

Can we catch the ball let alone play American Football? Absolutely not. Will we still be wearing Dior Fall 22 shoulder and chest pads in September? Maybe. Are we really going to use the Daley SS22 SS singlet for WWE wrestling or the AW22 Off-White jockey helmet for going horse riding? This is highly unlikely. But whether it’s boxing looks or equestrian cosplay, each of these collections violates the general rules of who can wear these items and the social groups based on class and gender that differ across each sport.

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Image courtesy of Loewe.

Wrestling

You don’t need to watch a montage of Cal Jacob’s queer origin stories on euphoria Season 2 to see the homoerotic tone of wrestling. The hyper-masculinity of enduring combat and unspeakable intimacy when two bodies are pressed together with small but thin strips of lycra that can easily be removed to separate them. But outside of the wrestling ring, if a fitted vest and mesh top is the gay summer 2021 look, then this year we’re wearing a singlet. At least, that’s what the designers said this season. Steven Stokey-Daley made his LFW debut in a boarding school-style burgundy singlet with white edges in his SS22 collection, reminiscent of Victorian menswear. A shimmering disco-ready singlet was part of Loewe’s summer offering, while Rick Owens had bodysuits with a navel cut that exposed the nipples. Lazoschmidl’s wrestling outfit is made of neon latex tied with a black ribbon and Alled-Martinez features two tight 80s-style corduroys reminiscent of clothes with sheer stripes. The horny vibe stands out most, however, in Central Saint Martins graduate Alex Wolfe’s SS22 collection, where the shorts give the impression of a stripped singlet, revealing the sweaty body underneath.

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Image courtesy of Miu Miu.

Tennis

If the Miu Miu SS22 is so much ‘summer off’ – step up your skirts and cut your shirts to wildly non-uniform heights – then the AW22 is for sporting trials at the start of the new school year. That The very cute Miu Miu SS22 mini skirt was given a tennis white makeover, paired with a cropped polo top with sporty stripes along the ab-skimming hems. There are also some ballet sandals and leg warmers for those who want to get as much college credit as possible from their extracurriculars.

Model at JW Anderson Mens AW22

Image courtesy of JW Anderson.

Football

The lines between football and fashion have been blurred for a while now (remember the mid-heeled nappa leather football boots from Miu Miu’s summer 2021 collection?). Recently we had Phil Foden on the cover of iD, Marcus Rashford as a Burberry model and Declan Rice on the full Prada for the debut issue. CircleZeroEight. But if the players take over the editorial and campaign, then it is the referees who are the inspiration on the runway. In JW Anderson’s Fall collection – a show dedicated to British party culture that feels like the first night of Freshers’ Week – a sporty polo top is transformed into a petite playsuit and a hoop skirt. Or every inch of the classic leggings is covered in beads like a Bratz doll, in fun blues, pinks and golds; next to matching shorts. On the Coach AW22, the whistle is attached to the curly leather choker making it unusable.

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Image courtesy of Chanel.

Horseman

When an eight-year-old stallion trotted along the runway at Chanel’s SS22 couture show in January, there was no question who it was. On her back is Princess Charlotte Casirgahri of Monaco, granddaughter of Grace Kelly and an avid rider, in the historic French house’s famous tweed jacket with a matching jockey hat, gloves and riding boots. It’s a fitting entry point for a collection that plays avant-garde constructivism alongside early 20th-century clothing ready for a day at the races — without the charms. Two months later, Chanel’s artistic director, Virginie Viard, is launching a ready-to-wear collection next fall that includes a range of moss-colored riding boots and sneakers associated with high-end sports.

But equestrian gear — a big element of the high fashion glitz of the past — isn’t just visible at Chanel, a home that’s known for its elegance and sophistication through tailoring. correct My Fair Lady fashion, in his latest collection for Off-White, Virgil Abloh plays the concept of code switching (the act of changing appearance, behavior, and behavior to suit different social groups) with a jockey helmet equipped with a baseball cap rim. Or is it a baseball cap with a jockey helmet structure? At Gucci, also known for its equestrian heritage, the headgear is embellished with the three stripes from their adidas collaboration. In the SS22 Palomo Spain collection, the helmet is worn by the male model in an revealing body suit, floral bodice top, and Tudor-style boots with exaggerated gold buckles. At Hermés too – a brand that started as a maker of saddles, harnesses and bridles – riding boots, perhaps less suited to the mud in the field, come in a variety of suede materials, paired with matching knee-high socks and a variety of form-fitting garments. with all the flexibility needed to mount a mare.

Boxing

When Maria Grazia Chiuri brought out boxing silk in her SS22 collection, it was quite a shock. As our fashion director noted in her review, “this is not what we expected from Maria Grazia”. But since the 2002-era Xtina — freshly stripped of her Mickey Mouse rulers and embracing her sexuality — donned a pair of shorts and a striped bra top as she threw punches into the boxing ring, her sport and code have become an unapologetic vision. Empowerment. The pair of baggy boxer shorts in the Desir Ludovic De Saint Sernin collaboration look like they might have been instantly inspired by the music video, the y2k fire and rhinestone details reminiscent of Xtina’s wardrobe color scheme. But in the case of Maria Grazia Chiuri, neon boxing outfits with matching shorts, bra tops, and capes with bandaged fists flaunt a new kind of contemporary woman. One is ready to fight.

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Image courtesy of Dior.

American Football

Is there anyone more American than a footballer? Under his helmet, the square shoulder pads and clothes were torn by scrum. He — and in idolatry often in particular he was — was the pinnacle of patriotism. In high school movies, he may not be the brightest but he is the one who politely and honorably stands ready to protect the herd. But does their almighty power come from within or from the uniform? In Gucci’s collaboration with adidas, shoulder pads form the basis of this corset-strength waist cut top. The high-tech Christian Dior AW22 collection features models protected by white heat-sensitive padding on the shoulders and chest, exaggerated black cross stitching brings together pieces reminiscent of the ball itself.

Cali designer Eli Russell Linnetz has toyed with the vision of football players as heroes as well. In his SS22 collection, the bodies of feather-winged angels (fallen ones who gave their lives for the game), stand in tight white clothing and shoulder pads under the protection of their helmets. Six months later, for his AW22 collection, Eli brings the character back as a man covered in broken plaster on a gurney; embodies an all-American story spanning decades and collective memories. It took us from teetering off the battlefield, to a dripping Uncle Sam of Stars and Stripes and back into the post-match boys’ locker room—the joy of victory was evident as the peacock players were in pants and half uniforms. Caught up in the Americana of it all, we half expected the model to pump some air, with “Don’t You (Forget About Me)” playing over the collection credits.

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